Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
